Friday, August 26, 2011

How to Frame a stable Door

How to Frame a stable Door


Carriage House Doors are best described as a pair of doors that access an enclosed parking garage. The original originate of these doors includes window lights over the upper section of each door that contribute natural daylight within the garage and also add accent to the design.

To frame these doors begin by measuring the size of the chance where the doors will reside. Specifically the ample width of the chance from one trimmer or side to the opposite as well as the height from the driveway face to the head or top of the opening.

Framing Nails Degree

In the event the chance is not ended with wood trimmers at each side and a wood header over the top these will need to be installed to contribute mounting for the Carriage House Doors and weather strip. Trimmers and headers should be minimum 1-1/2" thick surfaced lumber that will withstand the weather even when sealed and painted. Ideally the lumber should be Douglas fir or Redwood as both are enough in this regard. In addition the width of the trimmers and header should exceed the width of the construction wall by at least 1" in order to allow for faultless weatherproofing of the construction to door frame seams.


To frame the doors begin by measuring the width of the chance in the middle of the trimmers and deduct 3". This will allow 1" at each side of the chance for hinge clearance and practically 1/2�" at each door at the center point where the paired doors meet. These clearances are necessary for ease in execution of the doors and door hardware.

Divide the total size by 2 and this estimate will be the width of each door. To determine the height of the doors measure the distance from the driveway face to the underside of the header and deduct 1" for clearance.

The materials for the doors will be a similar all weather lumber such as Douglas fir or Redwood and these pieces will be 1-1/2" thickness x 8" width for the door stiles and 3/4�" thickness x 8" width for the recessed door panels. All joint and projection attachments of the frame will be with 3" wood screws and wood glue. The screws will be countersunk to 1/4�" and these will be filled with wood dowels and sanded flush.

To assemble each door measure and cut the (2) side pieces to the height of the doors. Lay these pieces on a flat face at the exact width and cut the top and lowest pieces to fit over these, from face to outside.

Next miter-cut all corners to 45 degrees and assemble the frame using screws and wood glue. Be sure to pre-drill any attachments near the outer edges to guard against splitting of the frame. Check the frame for square and exact dimensions.

Cut the cross-piece that will define the window chance over the top section of the door. Setup this piece by pre-drilling from the face of the frame and attaching with glue and wood screws. Countersink the screws and fill with wood dowels sanded flush.

For the recessed door panels begin by cutting �3/4" x 3/4�" pieces of stock to the size of the inside of the recessed panel area and Setup these to the frame as stops. These may be glued and nailed in place using #6 galvanized desist nails. Cut pieces of the 3/4�" x 8" lumber to fit securely in the recessed area and Setup these by attaching to the doorframe with #6 galvanized nails and wood glue. Caulk all seams on the front and back sides of the door.

For the window lights cut pieces of 3/4�" x 2" glass stop and Setup these vertically in the chance over the upper section of the door. The size in the middle of these pieces will depend on the desired size of the personel window openings. Setup the window glass and faultless the factory with a weather tight sealant at all edges.

The doors should be primed with an all weather primer and desist painted with (2) coats of face paint to the desired color. The doors are now ready for factory and desist hardware.

How to Frame a stable Door


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