Sunday, July 31, 2011

B & C Eagle A312X131/22 Round Head 3-1/2-Inch by .131-Inch by 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Framing Nail (500 per Box)

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Technical Details For B & C Eagle A312X131/22 Round Head 3-1/2-Inch by .131-Inch by 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Framing Nail (500 per Box)


  • Stock up on nails with 500 per box
  • 3-1/2-Inch by .131 plain shank framing nails full round head
  • Provides a steady drive and sturdy results
  • Comes with reliable and effective paper-collated packaging
  • Compatible with Hitachi NR90AC, Duofast CN350, Senco SN60 and SN65, Makita AN8300, Porter-Cable FR350 and FR350MAG, DEWALT D51844 and D51845, and Bostitch N88RH nailers

Review on B & C Eagle A312X131/22 Round Head 3-1/2-Inch by .131-Inch by 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Framing Nail (500 per Box)


B & C Eagle, 500 Count, 3-1/2" x .131, Smooth Shank, Brite, Plastic Collated, Framing Nails, With Full Round Head, Fits The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi Nr83a, Nr83a2, Nr83a2s, Nr90ac, Duo-Fast Cn350, Senco Sn60, Sn65, Makita An8300, An922, Porter Cable Fr350, Fr350a, Fr350mag, Max Sn890rh, Bostitch N88rh, N95rhn, F21pl, Bosch Sn350-20F, B&C Eagle Sn2290, Dewalt D51844, D51850, Rigid R350rha, Milwaukee 7100-20 & Most Other 20 To 22 Degree Full Round Head Framing Nailers.


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Saturday, July 30, 2011

B & C Eagle 3X120HDR/22 Round Head 3-Inch by .120-Inch by 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail (4,000 per Box)

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Technical Details For B & C Eagle 3X120HDR/22 Round Head 3-Inch by .120-Inch by 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail (4,000 per Box)


  • Hot Dipped Galvanized
  • Ring Shank
  • 4,000 per box

Review on B & C Eagle 3X120HDR/22 Round Head 3-Inch by .120-Inch by 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail (4,000 per Box)


B & C Eagle, 4,000 Count, 3" x .120, Ring Shank, Hot Dipped Galvanized, Full Round Head, Framing Nails, That Fit The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi NR83A, NR83A2, NR83A2S, NR90AC, Duo-Fast CN350, Senco SN60, SN65, FP702, Makita AN8300, AN922, Porter Cable FR350, FR350A, FR350MAG, Max SN890RH, Bostitch N88RH, F21PL, N95RHN, Dewalt D51844, D51845, Rigid R350RHA, Milwaukee 7100-20.


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Friday, July 29, 2011

B & C Eagle A312X131HD/22 Round Head Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Smooth Shank Framing Nail, 3-1/2-Inch by 0.131-Inch 20-to-22-Degree, 500 per Box

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Review on B & C Eagle A312X131HD/22 Round Head Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Smooth Shank Framing Nail, 3-1/2-Inch by 0.131-Inch 20-to-22-Degree, 500 per Box


B & C Eagle, 500 Count, 3-1/2" x .131, Smooth Shank, Hot Dipped Galvanized, Plastic Collated, Framing Nails, With Full Round Head, Fits The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi Nr83a, Nr83a2, Nr83a2s, Nr90ac, Duo-Fast Cn350, Senco Sn60, Sn65, Makita An8300, An922, Porter Cable Fr350, Fr350a, Fr350mag, Max Sn890rh, Bostitch N88rh, N95rhn, F21pl, Bosch Sn350-20F, B&C Eagle Sn2290, Dewalt D51844, D51850, Rigid R350rha, Milwaukee 7100-20 & Most Other 20 To 22 Degree Full Round Head Framing Nailers.


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Thursday, July 28, 2011

B & C Eagle A238X113R/22 Round Head 2-3/8-Inch-by-.113-Inch-by-20 to 22-Degree Plastic Collated Ring Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box)

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Review on B & C Eagle A238X113R/22 Round Head 2-3/8-Inch-by-.113-Inch-by-20 to 22-Degree Plastic Collated Ring Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box)


B & C Eagle, 500 Count, 2-3/8" x .113, Ring Shank, Brite, Plastic Collated, Framing Nails, With Full Round Head, Fits The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi Nr83a, Nr83a2, Nr83a2s, Nr90ac, Duo-Fast Cn350, Senco Sn60, Sn65, Makita An8300, An922, Porter Cable Fr350, Fr350a, Fr350mag, Max Sn890rh, Bostitch N88rh, N95rhn, F21pl, Bosch Sn350-20F, B&C Eagle Sn2290, Dewalt D51844, D51850, Rigid R350rha, Milwaukee 7100-20 & Most Other 20 To 22 Degree Full Round Head Framing Nailers.


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Wednesday, July 27, 2011

How to Build a Two-Room Dog House

How to Build a Two-Room Dog House


If you want to build a warm, dry, outdoor security for your dog, a two room dog house is the best thing you can build. In order to build a permissible dog house, you will need to get your dog's measurements. There are any web sites you can go to for permissible measurements or you can do it on your own at home. A good dog house should be large adequate for your dog to turn colse to in, but small adequate to keep him warm. Take the length of your dog and add one foot, this is the smallest width your house should be. Then add 1 ½' to the length of your dog, this is the smallest length of your house. Now, add the height of your dog plus 9 inches, this is the shortest height of your dog house. The door will also be determined by the width and height of your dog. A thorough door size is 2'x2' for a larger dog and 1'x1' for a smaller dog.

When you are construction the two room dog house, you need to make the outer room half as wide as the inner one. The inner room needs to be large adequate for your dog to sleep or lie down in without being cramped. Add an extra 6 inches to the length and width measurements of the dog when it is lying curled up.

Framing Nails Degree

Construct the base of the dog house out of 2x4 and plywood. The base frame needs to be the same size as the floor and needs to contain ventilation holes. The ventilation holes are there to allow moisture to flee from underneath the dog house. Having your dog house built on a base will help to give your dog more insulation as the floor won't be on the ground and absorb the cold. Having it off the ground also helps to preclude rot. Be sure to place mesh or netting over the holes so rodents and bugs don't get under the dog house. Once you have constructed your base, you will need to fit the floor to the base. Use weatherproof screws and nails to collect the floor to the base.


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Once you have the floor in tact, you will need to attach the frames for the walls. collect the partition wall to the base and install a plywood panel angled to match the sides. You will then install rigid foam insulation to keep your dog cool in the summer and warm in the winter. install the insulation in the wall cavities and cover them with plywood. Make sure you wholly cover the insulation because your dog could find it and chew on it.

Once all the walls are ready to go and you have checked them for nails and other things that could scratch your dog, you are ready to install the roof. You have two styles of roofs to select from. You can install a roof on hinges so you can verily open it for cleaning, or you can install a former A-frame roof that doesn't open. If you select an A-frame roof, you will need to succeed these steps:

The struts, ridge boards, and rafters all need to be cut from 2x4s. A typically roof height is about a 45 degree angle. Center the roof front strut on the top edge of the wall frame and nail it into place from the underside of the frame. succeed the same policy for the back strut. Next, you will place the roofing boards. The roofing boards will be attached to the rafters, start by attaching the bottom board first. Once the roof is in place, it is time to shingle.

How to Build a Two-Room Dog House


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Tuesday, July 26, 2011

B & C Eagle A2X113HDR/22 Full Head 2-Inch by .113-Inch by 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box)

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Review on B & C Eagle A2X113HDR/22 Full Head 2-Inch by .113-Inch by 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box)

Framing Nails 2' x .113 Full Round Head, Ring Shank, Hot Dipped Galvanized Fit: Hitachi NR90AC; Duo-Fast CN350; Senco SN60, 1B003N, SN65; Makita AN8300; Porter-Cable FR350, FR350MAG; DeWalt D51844, D51845; and Max SN890RH.Hot Dipped GalvanizedRing Shank500 per boxSmall Pack Convenience

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Monday, July 25, 2011

B & C Eagle A3X120HDR/22 Full Head 3-Inch by .120-Inch 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box)

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Review on B & C Eagle A3X120HDR/22 Full Head 3-Inch by .120-Inch 20 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box)

B & C Eagle, 500 Count, 3" x .120, Ring Shank, Hot Dipped Galvanized, Plastic Collated, Framing Nails, With Full Round Head, Fits The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi Nr83a, Nr83a2, Nr83a2s, Nr90ac, Duo-Fast Cn350, Senco Sn60, Sn65, Makita An8300, An922, Porter Cable Fr350, Fr350a, Fr350mag, Max Sn890rh, Bostitch N88rh, N95rhn, F21pl, Bosch Sn350-20F, B&C Eagle Sn2290, Dewalt D51844, D51850, Rigid R350rha, Milwaukee 7100-20 & Most Other 20 To 22 Degree Full Round Head Framing Nailers.

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Sunday, July 24, 2011

Make Your Own custom picture Frame

Make Your Own custom picture Frame


Custom photo frames can add a very nice layer of texture and depth to your home decor. While paying a framing shop or artisan to make convention frames for your photos and art is expensive, it doesn't mean that you can't have them in your own home. Almost anything can build convention photo frames with common materials that are easy to come by. Here is more facts on how you can do this.

Custom photo frames are a great way to express your personal tastes and to compliment the artwork or photos that you have in your home. Some habitancy have very eclectic styles and can find anything that will suit them at stable sales or flea markets. Others have more definite demands but don't have the budget to pay for convention framers to make their frames. But if you don't care for the wide mix of styles and don't have the budget to buy them, you can make your own convention photo frames. Some common and basic workshop tools will be needful for you to make the photo frames, and if you don't have them, they could be determined a good venture anyways. A uncomplicated miter box and a saw is all that is indubitably needful to make a true ninety degree angle for the frames. A tape portion or ruler will also be needful depending on the size of the frame being made. Glass will still have to be cut to fit the frame, but this can be done quite indubitably and inexpensively at most craft stores.

Framing Nails Degree

You will need to use wood to make the frames and there are many places you can get the needful wood. You can recycle and repurpose wood from other frames or furniture to make the frames or you can purchase any type or composition of home moldings to make the frame yourself. When you start shopping for wood, you may be surprised how inexpensive it can be. You can also join two or more uncomplicated moldings to make a more intricate and account for piece of wood for your frame. Doing this will furnish a nicer look and also a place where the artwork or glass will rest securely inside the frame.


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You'll also need some nails, wood glue, a hammer, sandpaper and a nail set to make the frame look clean on the face before finishing. Most habitancy have these things around the house and if not, they can be purchased inexpensively at Almost any store. It is also a good idea to have some spackle for filling in the holes made by the nails, but wood glue can also be used. Improvisation is a very good way to make household items into striking and gorgeous pieces of art that double as photo frames. All that you indubitably need to make a gorgeous photo frame out of common materials is a good imagination, some time and the right tools.

While not all things in the home or found at a stable sale can be used to make a photo frame, you can use many different things in ways most wouldn't think of to make animated photo frames. For example, you may be able to use an old door frame or the molding around it to make a frame. You could also use an old piece of glass or Plexiglas from an old desk or table top in the frame. This can safe the photo from Uv rays and give added character to your artwork. anything you select to do with items you find around the house, make sure you are creative with what you make.

Make Your Own custom picture Frame


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Saturday, July 23, 2011

How to Make a Your Own convention Stretched Canvas For Fine Art Painting

How to Make a Your Own convention Stretched Canvas For Fine Art Painting


Are you an artist looking for a way to save money and make a institution canvas stretcher at the same time? Many "starving artists" need to be as thrifty as potential when it comes to purchasing art supplies. One way to both save money and make a best potential canvas stretcher is to make it yourself and then stretch the canvas on the stretcher yourself. This is particularly true for art students who may be on an even tighter budget than your expert or amateur "starving artist". making your own canvas stretcher is also a good idea if you are making large canvases or extra shaped stretchers that may not be ready in art stores. Economy and best are two great reasons to make your own.

Equipment;

Framing Nails Degree

1. Miter saw, hand-operated or power miter saw (a saw that will cut a 45-degree angle)
2. Corrugated nails
3. Wood glue
4. angle clamps
5. Hammer
6. Small 1-inch finishing nails
7. Canvas pliers
8. Canvas(unprimed)
9. Gesso
10. Light duty staple gun


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Step 1. Make a sketch with the dimensions of your canvas and then think exactly how much wood you will need for the project.

Step 2. Take a trip to your local lumber store or Lowes or Home Depot. You will need to hand pick the 1" X 2" lumber which the stretcher will be made with. Make sure you pick good potential and level pieces of white pine wood. Also hand pick some ¼-inch quarter round molding, the same distance as the 1" X 2" lumber your selected.

Step 3. Glue the 1'4-inch quarter round molding to the top face edge of the 1" X 2" wood so that one flat side of the quarter round is glued to the 2" side of the 1" X 2" and the other flat side is flush with the 1" edge. Nail the quarter round to the 1" X 2" with one-inch finishing nails.

Step 4. Cut the 1" X 2" with the quarter round attached, to the proper distance using a mitre saw, cutting at a 45-degree angle. Cut four 1" X 2" pieces about 6" to 12" long (depending on the size of the canvas) for braces in the four corners. Cut these braces with a mitre saw at a 45-degree angle. Cut one 1" X 2" piece as a middle brace for the canvas; cut it at the regular 90-degree angle. This brace will be in the middle of the canvas, butted on each side to the inside edge of the stretcher frame.

Step 5. Now that you have all your pieces cut, you need to put them all together. If you have them, use four angle clamps to hold the corners together at a 90-degree angle while you glue and nail the corners together, using corrugated nails or equivalent fasteners. Let the glue dry, take the stretcher frame out of the angle lamps and attach the four angle braces and the middle brace using glue and corrugated nails or equivalent.

Step 6. Now you have your frame! Next step is to stretch the unprimed canvas onto the stretcher frame. The canvas should be about 4 inches larger than the stretcher frame on all four sides so that it will wrap nearby to the back side. Lay the unprimed canvas on the floor and town the stretcher on the canvas with the stretcher frame upside down with the quarter rounds touching the canvas. beginning in the town of each side of the frame, wrap the canvas nearby the back of the frame and staple to the back of the frame. Pull the canvas tight on the opposite town and staple. Continue this process going from the town to the corners stapling the canvas roughly one-inch apart.

Step 7. Now you have a stretched canvas! The final step is to tighten the canvas even more with hot water and then ultimately gesso the canvas. Boil some water on the stove, get a rag or a parasite and wet the entire face of the canvas with the hot water. This will shrink the cotton material, making the canvas nice and taut on the stretcher, excellent for painting. Let the canvas dry and apply a coat of acrylic gesso to protect the canvas and to have a base layer of white paint which will make your colors more intense.

Step 8. Grab a cup of coffee, sit back and admire your awesome hand-made institution canvas. Now take a few minutes and observe how to fabricate your next masterpiece on your awesome new canvas!

How to Make a Your Own convention Stretched Canvas For Fine Art Painting


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Friday, July 22, 2011

Easy to Understand Do It Yourself photograph Framing

Easy to Understand Do It Yourself photograph Framing


Picture frames are those items which bring elegance and sophistication to the photograph in ask and to the wall on which it is placed. Choosing the right frame for your photograph or portrait is an prominent step in photograph framing.

Requirements

Framing Nails Degree

· Glass. Glass protects the photo or photograph from any bodily harm such as dust, liquids, sunlight and fire. To cut this glass, you will need to wear protective gloves and use a glass cutter. Before cutting the thick glass, you will also need to part the dimensions of the photograph and the mount. Cut the glass slightly bigger than that.


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· Frames mouldings. Often the frames come in ready cut parts and just need to be joined with glue. These come in wood and metal. These mouldings can be ordered online from the varied designs available. These can be joined together with clampers.

· Mount. Mount is a contrasting coloured board with surrounds the picture. This can be singular or double mount. Mount cutters are used to cut it to cut these mounts made of cardboards or fiber to dimension.

· Mitre joint. The mouldings are joined together at the vertices. This has to be exactly at 45 degrees for an exact snug fit. Else, the framing becomes flawed. V nails are used as joiners mostly.

· Backboard. This is the component that holds the whole structure of the framed picture.

These are the main requirements. Other than this, the tools needed for proper framing are mitre trimmer, joiner, mitre saw, tab gun, glass cutter, ruler/scale and mount cutter.

After the frame has been set up and the photograph has been set into the frame, all that is left to do is mounting it on a wall. This requires nails and hold ups, which can balance the weight of the whole framed structure.

Turn the photograph face down. Mark one third from its top and attach two loops on whether side. This is the point where the hanging loop or ring comes.

To close off, the gap between the backboard and the frame is taped. This helps the structure from collapsing.

That is all Diy photograph framing is all about!

Easy to Understand Do It Yourself photograph Framing


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Thursday, July 21, 2011

B and C Eagle A238X113HDR/22 2-3/8-by-0.113-Inch 20-to-22-Degree Round Head Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail, 500-Per Box

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Review on B and C Eagle A238X113HDR/22 2-3/8-by-0.113-Inch 20-to-22-Degree Round Head Plastic Collated Hot Dipped Galvanized Ring Shank Framing Nail, 500-Per Box

B & C Eagle, 500 Count, 2-3/8" x .113, Ring Shank, Hot Dipped Galvanized, Plastic Collated, Framing Nails, With Full Round Head, Fits The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi Nr83a, Nr83a2, Nr83a2s, Nr90ac, Duo-Fast Cn350, Senco Sn60, Sn65, Makita An8300, An922, Porter Cable Fr350, Fr350a, Fr350mag, Max Sn890rh, Bostitch N88rh, N95rhn, F21pl, Bosch Sn350-20F, B&C Eagle Sn2290, Dewalt D51844, D51850, Rigid R350rha, Milwaukee 7100-20 & Most Other 20 To 22 Degree Full Round Head Framing Nailers.

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Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Installing Casing Trim

Installing Casing Trim


Installing casing trim colse to door openings and window frames can be a bit more difficult if you are seeing for a expert seeing finish. distinct techniques need to be employed to be sure the trim is cut to the exact form fitting precision, and using the right tools are requisite to ensure the job can be done quickly and smoothly.

Casing trim must be installed colse to all door openings first, before any baseboard trim can be laid down. The baseboard will then butt up against the casing for a nice seeing finish. All casing should be ideally painted or stained done before the install, as painting it afterwards can be more tedious.

Framing Nails Degree

Having the allowable tools are an leading part of a clean and effective install. The typical measuring tape and pencil are your staple tools, along with a hammer and nail set. Have the thorough length finishing nails for the thickness of your trim. For a thorough sized casing trim, have 1 1/2" nails and 1" finishing nails. Having an galvanic chop saw, or miter saw is important, along with a small step ladder. It will usually take many cuts to perform the exquisite fit and a hand saw and mitering block will be more difficult to use efficiently. Finally, if your casing will have a painted finish, you have the luxury of using a paintable caulking to hide all seams and cracks for the extreme clean install. Have a caulking gun and the requisite whole of caulking in a color that best matches your wall or casing color.

For a door trim casing install, start with the two vertical trim pieces first. Obviously there is a gap between the edge of the drywall and the done door frame. Ideally we would like to cover this leaving the trim about 3/16" back from the inside edge of the done door frame.

Now, assuming your door frame angles are roughly 90 degrees, cut the top of the casing piece at a 45 degree angle. Keep the shorter side on the inside and the longer side of the cut on the outside, of course. Don't forget to allow for the 3/16" spacing for the top board. The best way to do this is to stand the trim piece up on end, in place, and mark with a sharp pencil, on the inside side of the trim, a little tick at the thorough height. Make your miter cut at a 45, using this pencil tick as a guide; it's leading to be spoton here. There's nothing wrong with cutting it a bit "long" to start, test fit it, and then working your way down bit by bit until the allowable length is achieved.

Nail the board on using both sizes of finishing nails. Use the 1 ½" nails on the outer quantum of the trim, nailed into the jack stud behind, and use the 1" finishing nails on the inner quantum of the trim, nailing straight through to the done door frame. Use nails every 1' to 2' apart, or as necessary, and counter sink with the nail set. Do the same with the trim piece on the other side of the doorway.

This leaves just the top casing piece to fit in between the two side pieces, and 45 degree angle joins. I like to start by cutting one end of the top trim piece at a 45 and test fit that end. It's helpful to have a helper hold the other end of the piece up as you check the fit. If you don't have someone else ladder for your helper, they can stand on a solid chair, or even a sturdy coffee table. Make sure the trim piece is horizontally in line with the top of the door frame, about 3/16" above the lip. The angled end join should fit leaving only a smooth flat seam line. If not, then you will have to make a cut at a slightly separate angle to compensate.

Switch sides with your helper and mark the angled cut for the other side. The top casing piece will overlap the side piece, so you will be able to line up and mark the top and bottom for the exact angled cut. Set your miter saw up to the thorough angle as measured, don't assume 45 degrees, use the angle measured. Make the cut about ¼ too long and then check for angle fitment, using a helper to hold the other end up again. If the angle was correct, whittle cut bit by bit, until the trim piece fits snugly and perfectly between the two side casings and nail it home. The same technique can be used for window trim, except the bottom piece will be like the top piece.

If there were any imperfections or crack lines exposed, use the caulking to runs beads colse to all sides of the casing, and smooth out with a finger. Only do this for painted trim, the wood halt trim may look awful if you try to caulk the cracks. You can also fill the angle join cracks with the caulking, as well as the nail holes, or just use wood filler. You can then repaint or touch up paint the casing, or if the casing color was a close match, just leave it. Good luck!!

Installing Casing Trim


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Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Grip-Rite 6d Cooler- 2-Inch x .113 Ring shank hot-dipped galvanized 21 Degree Full Round Head, Plastic Collated, Stick Framing Nails (500 per tub)

Review Grip-Rite 6d Cooler- 2-Inch x .113 Ring shank hot-dipped galvanized 21 Degree Full Round Head, Plastic Collated, Stick Framing Nails (500 per tub)

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Product Feature

  • 6d 'Cooler' - 2" x .113" - Vinyl Coated, 21° Full Round Head
  • RING SHANK For Added Holding Power, HOT-DIPPED GALVANIZED For Exterior Use, Plastic Collated Strip Framing Nails
  • Clear, Resealable, Reusable, Stackable Plastic Tub. GREAT for Do-It-Yourself Projects
  • Use with Grip-Rite® GRTRH350 - 21° Full Round Head Framing Nailer
  • 500 Nails per Tub

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21 full round head exterior galvanized stick framing nail. Plastic collated with ring shank. Primary applications include: Framing, sheathing, subfloors, and roof decking. 500 nails per plastic tub. No. GRT04HG: 2" x .113 No. GRT08RHG: 2-3/8" x .113 No. GRT408HG: 3" x .120

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Monday, July 18, 2011

The Easiest Way to Build a Mirror Frame

The Easiest Way to Build a Mirror Frame


If you have a mirror and it either needs a frame or needs a new frame you can build one economy than it may cost to buy one. You will need some tools but it doesn't take very much skill to properly build a frame for your mirror. You will need a saw, preferably a miter saw but a suitable hand saw will be sufficient. You will also need wood glue, a hammer and small framing nails.

The first step would be to development the base which will but the main withhold retention your mirror. Depending on the size of your mirror you may need distinct size wood to build your support. To build a 24 inch by 24 inch mirror I would use a ½-1 inch by 2-3 inch piece of wood. After you part and cut the pieces of wood for your withhold you should lay it out how it will be constructed. Lay your mirror on top of the wood. Your mirror should lay about halfway into the support. Trace the mirror and now you know where to cut your grooves. You need to cut into the wood about as thick as the glass that way it can positively sit into your support. All four sides should have the same size groove and now you can put them together using framing nails and wood glue.

Framing Nails Degree

Now that you have your withhold made you can buy some modeling at your local hardware store. This will be located on top of your mirror and frame to give it a finished look. You can buy stain and stain your modeling and withhold if you do not like the general wood color. If you determine to stain it, be sure to buy a clear coat to desist the stain job. When cutting and measuring your modeling you need to cut at 45 degree angles, which is why a miter saw it adored but it is inherent with a hand saw. Now that your pieces of modeling are cut and stained, you can assemble them. Use wood glue to associate them and use masking tape to hold them together while the glue dries. Now that your modeling is assembled and glue you can lay it on top of your withhold and mirror. Once you confirm the sizes are matching up you can glue the model to the support. Use masking tape to hold it until the glue dries. You should also take framing nails from behind the withhold and hammer them through the withhold wood into the modeling. Once you are done with the nailing and the glue has dried you just need to frame wiring to run in the back of your frame and it is ready to hang on your wall.

It will take some time if you are not customary with wood working but if you have patience you will originate a gorgeous mirror frame. You can save money and be proud of what you have created.

The Easiest Way to Build a Mirror Frame


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Sunday, July 17, 2011

B & C Eagle A3X131/22 Round Head 3-Inch-by-.131-Inch-by-20 to 22-Degree Plastic Collated Smooth Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box)

Review B & C Eagle A3X131/22 Round Head 3-Inch-by-.131-Inch-by-20 to 22-Degree Plastic Collated Smooth Shank Framing Nail (500 per Box)

Usually ships in 4-5 business days




Product Feature

  • B & C Eagle pack of 500 round head plastic collated framing nails
  • Load into your nail gun for efficient driving in your home improvement applications
  • Compatible with Hitachi, Duo-Fast, Senco, Makita, Porter-Cable, Max, Bostitch, and DEWALT nail guns
  • Easy to load and held securely with plastic collation
  • 3-inch-by-.131 plain shank framing nails

Product Overview

B & C Eagle, 500 Count, 3" x .131, Smooth Shank, Brite, Plastic Collated, Framing Nails, With Full Round Head, Fits The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi Nr83a, Nr83a2, Nr83a2s, Nr90ac, Duo-Fast Cn350, Senco Sn60, Sn65, Makita An8300, An922, Porter Cable Fr350, Fr350a, Fr350mag, Max Sn890rh, Bostitch N88rh, N95rhn, F21pl, Bosch Sn350-20F, B&C Eagle Sn2290, Dewalt D51844, D51850, Rigid R350rha, Milwaukee 7100-20 & Most Other 20 To 22 Degree Full Round Head Framing Nailers.

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Saturday, July 16, 2011

B & C Eagle A238X113/22 Round Head 2-3/8-Inch-by-.113-Inch-by-20 to 22-Degree Plastic Collated Framing Nail (500 per Box)

Review B & C Eagle A238X113/22 Round Head 2-3/8-Inch-by-.113-Inch-by-20 to 22-Degree Plastic Collated Framing Nail (500 per Box)

Usually ships in 4-5 business days




Product Feature

  • B & C Eagle pack of 500 round head plastic collated framing nails
  • Load into your nail gun for efficient driving in your home improvement applications
  • Compatible with Hitachi, Duo-Fast, Senco, Makita, Porter-Cable, Max, Bostitch, and DEWALT nail guns
  • Easy to load and held securely with plastic collation
  • 2-3/8-inch-by-.113 plain shank framing nails

Product Overview

B & C Eagle, 500 Count, 2-3/8" x .113, Smooth Shank, Brite, Plastic Collated, Framing Nails, With Full Round Head, Fits The Following Nail Guns: Hitachi Nr83a, Nr83a2, Nr83a2s, Nr90ac, Duo-Fast Cn350, Senco Sn60, Sn65, Makita An8300, An922, Porter Cable Fr350, Fr350a, Fr350mag, Max Sn890rh, Bostitch N88rh, N95rhn, F21pl, Bosch Sn350-20F, B&C Eagle Sn2290, Dewalt D51844, D51850, Rigid R350rha, Milwaukee 7100-20 & Most Other 20 To 22 Degree Full Round Head Framing Nailers.

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Friday, July 15, 2011

How to Make a straightforward A-Frame Picnic Table

How to Make a straightforward A-Frame Picnic Table


Standard 6ft "A" Frame Picnic Table

This basic table is tried and true and has been nearby for many years and as a piece of outdoor furniture it will enhance your patio.. It is very straightforward to develop and will last for years.

Framing Nails Degree

It comes in many different designs. This one is made solely of 2*4 dressed, treated lumber.

Equipment Required

It could be made with a hand saw and miter box any way it would be easier with an electric circular saw. (Or even a drop arm miter saw.)

A hammer. A square. A small hand plane. Adjustable spanner. Tape measure.

A drill with a 3/8 bit. (2 1/2" holesaw)

Materials list

117 ft 2*4" dressed treated lumber (pine)
8 3/8" * 4" galvanized carriage bolts
Approx 110 3 1/2" galvanized flathead nails

Cutting list

1) Seat & table top 14 pieces @ 72" (1830mm) cut square

2) Seat supports 2 pieces @ 63" (1600mm) 60 degrees opposite angles

3) Table retain 2 pieces @ 29" (735mm) 60 degrees opposite angles

4) Legs 4 pieces @ 33" (840mm) 60 degrees parallel angles

5) Braces 2 pieces @ 24" (610mm) 45 degrees opposite angles

6) Table cleat 1 piece @ 29" (735mm) 60 degrees opposite angles

7) Seat cleat 2 pieces @ 10 1/2" (265mm)60 degrees opposite angles

Instructions

1) Cut all the lumber as per the cutting list.

2) On a flat face make up one of the end frames to the measurements in the diagram. Tack it together with nails.

3) Make up the second end frame so that it is a perfect match of the first.

4) If all measurements are ok, drill the 8 holes and bolt the frames together.

5) Stand the frames up with the legs on the inner side facing each other. Place one of the table top pieces on the face edge and tack in place 7" from the face edge. Then tack the other face table top board in place.

6) Check the distance in the middle of the legs. Adjust and then tack in place the 2 outer seat boards also at 7" from the end.

7) Check for square. (Measure corner to corner.) Check to see if 8 boards are going to fit on the table top. (Some lumber varies a limited in width.) If ok, nail in place all of the table top and the seats so that the 2*4's are hard up against each other.

8) Mark the town of the table top and fit the table cleat underneath. This is on its flat side. Nail in place from the top.

9) Mark the town of the seats and nail in place the 2 seat cleats from the top.

10) Turn the table upside down. You now need to make sure that the end frames are quadrilateral and vertical. Use your square. Tack a temporary brace to make sure it doesn't move. Now fit the 2 braces. These you have cut to 45 degrees. One end will be attached to the seat retain and the other to the 2*4's of the table top.

11) Turn back upright. Nail the braces from the top and the ends as well. Tidy up the furry edges with a hand plane.

12) If you need an umbrella hole you will need a 2 1/2" hole saw to drill a hole in the town of the table.

13) Enjoy.

How to Make a straightforward A-Frame Picnic Table


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Thursday, July 14, 2011

How To Build A Flag Display Case

How To Build A Flag Display Case


Decide on which size of flag you will be building a flag display case (fdc) for.
3'x5', 4'x6', 5'x9' (burial)
Measure the folded flag. For this example we will use the 5x9 burial flag.

You will need the bottom (horizontal) measurement,
along with the two diagonal measurements. Also get
the thickness of the folded flag.

Framing Nails Degree

* bottom msmt: 24"

* diagonal msmt: 16 3/4 "

* thickness: 2 3/4 "

Decide on the type of wood you will be using, for this example, we will use oak.

A 1x4 piece of oak as a matter of fact measures 3 1/2 in
width, which is fine. Buy an 8' length. (for be-
ginners, in case there are mistakes)

Seeing that our flag is triangular in shape, we will
cut the angles on a 45 degree. You can do this with a
circular saw or a chop saw (mitre saw). Chop saws
give a much great cut.

The bottom estimation of our flag is 24". So our
inside estimation of our 45 degree cuts must be
at least 24". I advise cutting the length of board at 24 1/4"
(little play room for glass and flag)

You should have approx. 6' of board left. As you know,
wood has a grain pattern. These next steps will give your case
a more pro appearance.

Measure off the longest measure of the angled 6' board
(that's your long point of that single angle, the
other is the short point of that single angle.)

Your angled measurements are 16 3/4".short point
to short point. However, you will be cutting it 3"
longer than that, (for mistakes). So let's just cut
our side pieces 20" long. Short to short.

Measure off the 6' board from long point 20", using a
speed square or framing square, make a mark and cut
your piece. (set this piece aside)

The longer remaining piece should have a short point.

Your objective now is to turn that piece colse to 180
degrees, and cut the short point again in order to
make it a long point.

Once you do this, your two 45 degree angles at the top
of the display case will fit and the grain will match.
It will look continuous. (match up all the angled
pieces until you find that grain match)

When you place the bottom piece up to the angled side
pieces to form the triangle you will notice that the
side pieces are too long. Just pencil mark the bottom
where it hangs over the bottom piece. That now is going
to be cut at a 45 degree. Make sure you cut the 45
degree angle the strict way. Your end product should
be a short to short angled piece.

When you are marking the piece to be cut, also mark
the side of the board so you know for sure, which way
the wood should be cut.
Tack the frame together or use a strap to hold it in
position.

Measure the size of glass you will need.
We can measure the glass in two ways:

(1) -The exact size, minus 1/8th inch. (if you are going
to place a wooden projection cover over the glass and
attach it to the frame.) Or

(2) - The glass can be measured 1/4" larger if it is going to be inserted into the frame.

Buy an 8' piece of wooden projection board.
(for face corners of walls) It is 3/4" long on each
side of the 45 degree angle. Cut this to fit the
outside (facing) of the triangular frame you just made.

You can insert the glass from the back side after the
outside wooden corner's are nailed on. Then you can cut and place 3
pieces of 1/4 "x 1/4" molding on the inside to hold
the glass in place.

Inset glass involves using a table saw.

Set your table saw guide to 1/4" from the inside of the saw blade to the guide itself.
Set the depth of the blade to 1/8th inch.

-- If you know at the starting that you will be insetting the glass, then cut the whole 8' length of board at one time. It's very difficult to cut small pieces like this and have it turn out correctly.

-- If you have never used a table saw, ask man with taste to accomplish this next step.---

Take the piece or pieces and with the table saw in operation, slowly guide the piece along the guide, production sure not too force the cut. Be gentle. It's wise to use a forked stick to push the wood through the cutting process.
There are jigs that can be purchased for just this job. Call a do-it-yourself place. They can help you
Once you have your cuts made, you are ready to nail it together.

Use small trim nails (1 1/4") long and nail frame together. With glass inserted into the cut grooves you just made.(Set nails with punch and color putty when done)

This is much easier if you have a brad gun. Also place the frame so the glass is face down so it doesn't break if it falls out during this process.

Take the frame and place it on some 3/16th luon (lew-on or oak paneling)
and trace the face of your frame. Cut this out for the backing of your display case. (Stain edges with the proper color. For oak, you can use Minwax-Colonial Maple or Early American.)

You can drill about 8 pilot holes through the 3/16" luon into the wood frame. (On the Back Side) for screws. Insert your burial flag. Insert your screws.

--That's a rap folks--your task is done.

***Read everything, before you try anything***

Tools & Supplies

* Tape

* Pencil

* Circular Saw

* Speed square (or)Framing Square.

* Sand Paper.

* Stain,Putty andPolyurethane

* Chop Saw (Mitre Saw)

* Cut Glass

* 2' x 2' piece of Oak or Maple paneling 3/16 or 1/4" thick.

* leech or Brush.

* 3/4" screws (8-10ea)

* Small box of 1 1/4" trim nails. Or 1 1/2".

* 8'- 1x4 board. (For your fdc frame.)

* 8' Wooden (Outside projection board). 3/4"

* protection Glasses!

***Warning***

* The 1st time you
disrespect a Power tool, It Will disrespect You!

* If you have children
around, during the
building and cutting
process be sure to
Unplug Power to all your tools until you use them again. Then, unplug them
again!

Tips:

Don't be in a rush. You can do this.

When ever you take a estimation add 1/16" to it. (20 1/16" instead of 20") That way, you cut On the line and you will all the time have the true estimation that you need.

Military Flag Display Cases Flag cases, Shadow Boxes and Frames Articles Faq Copyright 2007 - military Flag Display Case - Richard Blodgett - All proprietary Reserved Site manufacture Sj

How To Build A Flag Display Case


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